The Race Is On! The Basics: Where to Begin If You’re a Beginner

Getting Started | Electric RC’s | Nitro RC’s | Ready to Run | Build Your Own | Type of RC? | RC Car Sizes | How Much

For a beginner, the sheer amount of brands, varieties and specs of RC vehicles can be overwhelming.  There are literally hundreds of types of RC cars and trucks, all with different engines, performance levels and completely customizable details.  This puts hobby quality RC cars on a whole different level than toys and replicas, and is what makes them so much more interesting and exciting to play with.

While the actual mechanics of how each RC vehicle works can vary greatly from one to the next, the basic principles remain the same.  Once you understand how RC cars work, you’ll have a better idea of just what’s involved, and which one would be right for you.

There are four main parts to an RC vehicle:

• Transmitter: This is the control you hold in your hand, usually powered by a 9-volt battery.    Using radio frequencies, the transmitter relays the steering and control commands you give it to the receiver.
  
  
• Receiver: There are two parts to the receiver- an antenna and a circuit board inside the car.  The radio frequencies sent by the transmitter are picked up by the receiver and relayed to the various appropriate parts of the vehicle.       
  
  
• Motor(s): RC cars and trucks feature a variety of different types of engines, all with varying degrees of difficulty and output.  The motor is often said to be the heart of the RC car and is the most intricate part of building your own RC.
  
  
• Power Source:     Of course power is needed for acceleration, steering and overall engine output.  Aside from the 9-volt battery in the transmitter, the power source depends on the type of car: electric cars run on rechargeable, replaceable battery pack while nitro cars use a fuel mixture similar to what runs a real car.

What does RC Stand For?

If you’re new to RC it can often be confusing just what is meant- radio or remote control cars.  Though the two are often used interchangeably, this is incorrect; they are not the same thing at all, since the way they transmit signals is completely different.  You can spot a remote control car by the wire connecting the controller to the car itself.  Radio control vehicles, on the other hand, use radio frequencies to send messages from the steering controls on the transmitter to the receiver in the car.

There are FCC regulations for all consumer electronics that use radio frequencies, in order to properly allocate the frequencies on the band without too much interference.  Usually RC vehicles operate at 27MHz or 49MHz frequencies- the same as your walkie talkie or garage door opener.  More advanced RC models like planes require a higher frequency, and are regulated to 72MHz or 75MHz.  Always consult your manual to make sure you’re using the correct frequency, and for instructions on how to change frequency.

As long as you’re running your RC by yourself, all you need to do is follow the manufacturer’s instructions on how to choose the correct frequency for your vehicle.  But when it comes to race time or even just practicing with friends, you’ll need to make sure every one has their own frequency or the signals will get crossed.  If you’re at an official race, the organizers take care of this by providing each racer with a specific frequency and a flag with which to mark your car.  In order to avoid crossed signals, you’ll need to make sure when practicing that you follow a similar process.

Getting Started

Just like buying a real car, deciding on an RC car takes research, price comparison and evaluation of your own needs.  Though all RC’s have the same components—transmitter, receiver, motor, and power source—they vary widely in size, type, and degree of difficulty.

The first, most important decision to make is whether an electric or a nitro car is right for you.  Nitro cars tend to be faster and more powerful, though their engines require a lot of maintenance and tuning.  Electric cars, on the other hand, don’t run quite as fast, but they’re easier for beginners and run much quieter.

Secondly, once you’ve decided whether an electric or a nitro car is best for you, you need to choose between a car that is ready to run right out of the box and a kit that you build from scratch.  Ready to run cars are easier for beginners anxious to get to the race, though the build your own kits give you a better understanding of how RC’s work since you build it from the insides out.  If you’re not sure, keep in mind that most ready to run kits still include full instructions should you ever want to take apart your RC or replace some of its parts.

Next, you need to decide just where you’ll be driving the car.  Just like you wouldn’t buy a gas guzzling SUV if you live downtown and have a long commute, you’ll want to make sure you buy the RC that suits the kind of driving you’ll be doing.  On-road RC’s are built for speed, so if it’s racing and road running you have in mind, you’ll want to stick to these lighter, faster vehicles.  If you want to practice on rugged terrain and with jumps, the more rugged off-road RC’s are probably best for you.

The last thing to choose is the size and type of RC vehicle you’d like.  The most popular class of vehicles are 1/10th scale, but there are also larger 1/8 scale and smaller mini and micro sized cars.  Plus, the best part is you get to decide just what kind of RC vehicle you’d like best—there are cars, trucks, buggies, boats, planes and even helicopters to choose from.

Electric RC’s

Electric RC cars and trucks are generally considered best for beginners, since even if you choose to build your own car, they tend to be simpler and easier than nitro cars.  They’re also a great deal quieter and run much cleaner, meaning you’re less restricted by where you can run them.  In terms of speed and power, they do have a great deal of pickup, though not as much as the nitro cars.

Electric RC cars use rechargeable battery packs to power their motor and steering, which are usually recharged from a 12-volt car battery or wall socket.  Batteries run for about 5-10 minutes, depending on the type of engine your car has, and charging the battery usually takes 15-30 minutes.  Because of this, it is strongly recommended you have at least two battery packs, to allow for quick replacement of the battery.  This means your car can keep running while the other battery is recharging, giving the car more overall running time.

At first glance, getting started with an electric RC car can be much less expensive than a nitro vehicle. But there are other costs to consider as well, such as additional battery packs, a battery charger and other accessories that will add to the cost, making it closer to the price of a nitro car in the long run.  Of course, this cost also depends on what kind of car you end up purchasing and what kind of battery pack it requires, as well as how often you run the car and the quality of the batteries you get.  Though the initial outlay of cash can be steep, but you’ll want to get quality battery packs and a good charger to save replacing cheaper batteries.

The main reason electric RC’s are said to be easier than nitro is in the amount of maintenance and tuning their engines require.  Though the care, maintenance and cost of battery packs is steep, it is still less trouble for the new driver than the air filters, tuning, fueling and various other engine parts that require attention on a nitro car.  Instead, careful conditioning and proper storage of your battery packs will keep your electric RC running smoothly for years.  Always consult your manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you’re getting the right battery packs for your car, and that you’re caring for them properly.

Easier and cleaner, electric RC cars and trucks offer the genuine racing experience to the beginner on an easy learning curve.  Proper conditioning and maintenance of the car and its battery packs are still easier than the many parts and problems often associated with nitro RC’s.  If you’re a beginner, or if you just want to get to the races, an electric RC can offer you the speed and fun you’re after for less work.

Also keep in mind that if you think you’d prefer an electric RC, but still want the experience of building your own car, that you can also purchase electric kits.  These include complete instructions to build your own car from scratch, and because their systems are less complex than the nitro cars, they are a little easier to build yourself.

Electric RC Car Motors

In order to prevent unnecessary wear and tear on your electric motor, it is important to always break in your motor, before you drive it for the first time, and every time after you change its brushes. One easy method is to run the vehicle with the wheels off of the ground at about 1/4 power for about 5 minutes. This will slowly get the brushes fully seated to the commutator without causing wear and tear on the engine, and will allow your motor to run at its full potential.

Your electric car will come with instructions on how to change the brushes on the motor, as well guidelines for how often.  Remember, if you change the brushes on your motor, be sure to break it in again. How often you replace the brushes—and the motor, for that matter—depends on where and how much you’re running or racing your car.  Generally, a motor should be replaced after it has gone through five or more pairs of brushes, but it will always depend on the individual car, its motor and how well they’re running.

Nitro RC’s

Nitro RC cars are named for the special type of fuel that gives them and their motors such kick.  Though not the best choice for beginners, they are the choice if speed and power are what you want from your RC.  The great popularity of nitro RC cars and trucks is due not only to their speed, but is also because of the realism they offer—sights (smoke), sounds (tuned pipe) and smells (exhaust) just like the real thing!  Over the last several years, the quality of nitro RC’s has been greatly improved, making them safer and more reliable than in the past.

There are four defining features of a nitro RC car:

• special nitro fuel
  
  
• high horsepower nitro engine
  
  
• tuned exhaust pipe
  
  
• Realistic, replaceable air filter.

Two different power sources are required for a nitro RC car, starting with battery packs for the transmitter and receiver.  The car itself, as the name suggests, really does use gasoline as its fuel: an oil and gasoline mixture, much like a real car.  There are two kinds of nitro motors: the 2-stroke and the 4 stroke engine.  The more 2-stroke engine is similar to the kind of engine found inside motocross motorcycles, chain saws and weed whackers.  This type of engine has no separate oil reservoirs, so the oil that lubricates it is included in the fuel mixture.  Conversely, the less popular 4-stroke engine does have an oil reservoir and therefore depends less on a gasoline/oil fuel mixture for lubrication. When running or racing, the car’s fuel tank will need refilling every 5 to 10 minutes.

The engine seen most frequently in nitro RC cars today is a 23cc (cubic centimeter) displacement, 2-stroke engine.  Its popularity stems from the fact that it’s among the most powerful engines available for nitro RC cars, putting out approximately 2.5 HP from its 23cc displacement (23cc means that the engine has about 1.4 cubic inches of engine displacement).  This engine would be certainly powerful enough to impress you with its speed.

You’ll also need a starter for the engine, of which there are two types:

• a pull-start nitro engine (these use a process like your lawnmower to start)
  
  
• Or a non-pull nitro engine (these fire up with a starter box).

The pull start nitro engines cost a little more, but you don't have to buy a starter box and it's less you have to carry around to run your vehicle. Just take it out, pull on the starter, and you're ready to go! Be sure to check your instructions to choose a starter that’s right for your car.

To keep your nitro RC running at its best, constant maintenance is necessary.  This includes keeping the engine clean and well-tuned, setting it up correctly and using good clean fuel.  As well, if you’re running your RC off-road, you’ll need to make certain it is properly cleaned after you run it, otherwise dirt and grit can slow down or even ruin your engine. Any special procedures particular to your car will be outlined in your owner’s manual.  Remember that your engine will only run as well as you treat it—so take great care of it, and you’ll never have trouble on race day.

Fuelling Your Nitro RC Car

Nitro RC cars run on a blended fuel easily available at local hobby shops or online.  It is made up of a blend of methyl alcohol (methanol), nitro-methane (nitro), and oil. In order to understand how nitro fuel work, you need to know what each of these three components does for the car:

• Methanol provides the main power to the engine and is the main ingredient in model fuel.  It has an ignition point that allows it to be ignited with the kinds of platinum-element glow plugs used in RC engines, and it releases more energy per pound of air than gasoline. Because it’s easy to get, it’s not expensive—you’ll find model fuel much more reasonably priced than regular gas.
  
  
• Nitro-methane is added to assist the idle and acceleration and to enhance power output. Nitro is referred to as a “hot fuel,” and is only used in small amounts in model fuels.  It can be explosive if not handled correctly, so take care to read the fuel tips offered here, and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when filling up your RC.
  
  
• Oil is need as a source of lubricant for all the moving parts in the engine. Here 2-stroke and 4-stroke engines will require different fuels, since 2-stroke engines have no separate oil reservoir, and need oil mixed in with their fuel.  There are two types of oil found in model fuels- castor oil and synthetic oil.  These can be used by themselves or in a blend, with synthetics being far more common these days.  This is mainly because synthetics are cheaper and less gummy than castor oil, which used to be the only used.  For some engines, a blend with a large percentage of castor oil may work best, since it is actually a better lubricant at higher temperatures.  The synthetics are far less messy, however, and leave less gum on your engine.  You’ll be able to choose from blends of synthetic and castor oil that vary in their percentages- try out a few to find one that runs your engine best.

Fuel blends are expressed in percentages based on the amount of each component ingredient used, and of course the one right for you will depend greatly on your car and engine.  Most model fuels contain mainly methanol, to which about 20-22% oil and  10-15% nitro is added. Be sure to check your owner’s manual for suggestions and guidelines about which blend is correct.  Bear in mind that you may have to try out a couple of different types and blends before you find the one that’s right for the way your engine is tuned.  And if your engine isn’t running properly, one of the first things you should do is change the fuel.
 
Taking proper care of your nitro car’s fuel is extremely important.  Not only will it help your car run better and make for less wear on the engine, model fuels are flammable and could be dangerous if not properly stored.

• Nitro fuel should not be stored in unsealed containers.

Because methanol mixes easily with water, the container you store it in should be completely air tight.  Otherwise, air could get in and evaporation or condensation could occur, ruining the fuel.  It will cause your engine to run too hot and be quite damaging to your car’s fuel and exhaust systems.

• Store your fuel at room temperature, and at a constant temperature.

Again, you want to avoid any air in your container or in the fuel, which temperature swings can cause to condense.  Do not store your model fuel in a room that varies widely from hot to cold or vice versa.

• Keep model fuel away from light.

Nitro methane degrades in light, which means you need to store your model fuel in a cool, dark place.  If you leave it exposed to sunlight or store it in a brightly lit place, the nitro will degrade completely, as though it hadn’t even been added to the fuel in the first place.  This will cause your engine to run very poorly, or cause poor starts or stalling.

• Do not store fuel more than a year.

In addition to following all these steps, you must also replace your model fuel frequently.  Though proper storage will keep your fuel fresh and running clean, it cannot be stored for years and years.  Most manufacturers offer some guarantees on their fuel, but these will not apply if you have stored it for an extended period of time.  Most importantly, old fuel can be dangerous, so don’t leave it stored indefinitely.

Nitro Engines: 2-Stroke

The 2-stroke is the engine most commonly found in nitro RC’s. “Stroke” is meant by the number of times the piston travels through the engine sleeve in the combustion chamber.  2-stroke engines produce power in one cycle, which is divided into the two “strokes.”  The piston has two positions: top dead center where the cycle begins and ends, and bottom dead center, which is the middle point of the power cycle.  Combustion causes increased pressure in the chamber and forces the piston down.  As this occurs, the exhaust ports are opened so gases can escape through the manifold.  The second stroke begins when the piston reaches bottom dead center and the crankcase and then moves back up the engine sleeve.  This causes the pressure to build up again as the piston approaches TDC once again, completing the power cycle.  The next stroke occurs as soon as combustion from the glow plug sparks it again.

Nitro Engines: 4-Stroke

Less common but more powerful, 4-stroke engines are more like what you’ll find under the hood of your real car or your lawnmower.  Though similar to a 2-stroke, a 4-stroke engine has 2 full cycles with 2 strokes of the piston each (for a total of 4 strokes).  Unlike the simpler glow-plug ignition that a 2-stroke uses, a 4-stroke regulates the air and fuel in the chamber with a geared cam mechanism. Intake timing is how much and when this air/fuel mixture enters the cylinder, while exhaust timing refers to the escape of hot gas from the cylinder.

The easiest way to understand what happens in the 4-stroke power cycle is imagine the 2-stroke cycle simply stretched out to get the most out of each segment of the piston’s movement.  The piston begins at TDC and as it travels down the cylinder the geared cam allows fuel and air into the combustion chamber.

The intake valve closes when the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, which is then forced back up by the flywheel and drive train components.  This compresses the air and fuel, and the pressure causes combustion as the piston reaches the top of the cylinder again, completing what is referred to as the compression stroke.

As the fuel mixture ignites it initiate the so-called combustion-stroke, during which the piston travels back down the cylinder and up again.  In the final “power” stroke the gases are forced out to the exhaust systems—just as in the 2-stroke engine.  The cycle is then repeated.

4-stroke engines rely on intake and exhaust valves to complete their power cycle.  This is combined with a number of other features—a moving crankshaft, several valve-train components, camshaft, rod and pistons and the geared cam mechanism—to make a more powerful, but more advanced engine.  The improved management of fuel and air flow in and out of the engine makes the 4-stroke more efficient, though their advanced mechanisms mean they require meticulous attention and maintenance.

Nitro Maintenance and Tuning

So now that you know what’s under the hood of your RC, there are few more tips that will help your car run better:

• Improve your acceleration by proper preparation of your clutch.

Over time, a glaze can form on the clutch and the clutch bell, which causes the car’s acceleration to noticeably decrease.  Scuffing both the clutch shoes and the clutch bell with fine-grit sandpaper or steel wool and a good cleaning with motor-spray will remove this glaze, and prevent the clutch from slipping again the clutch bell.

• Extend the life of your car’s differential by breaking your motor in gently.

Your car’s differential filled with small, complicated gears that make them both complicated and expensive.  This is not a part you want to replace frequently, but carefully breaking in your car before racing or running it full out can greatly extend the differential’s lifespan.  To break in your engine, run it at ¼ power a few inches off the ground, and then run some slow, steadily powered figure-8’s.  This should set the gears in the differential and you can run it full out without damaging the engine.

• Make sure you keep your header in position.

Your car’s header is attached with a tiny spring, meaning it comes off very easily if you hit something or if your car gets hit by something.  If you’re racing, this can be a huge problem to put back on in a hurry, so be sure to attach your header to the engine block more firmly using a small piece of safety wire.  Make sure you twist the wire firmly around the header and be sure to cut off any excess.

• Brace your air filter to prevent losing or damaging it.

The small piece of the same safety wire that secures your header should also be used brace your filter.  Again, twist it tightly to prevent the filter from becoming loose and remove any excess.

• Protect your pull-start cord from fraying and breaking.

Over time, the cord of a pull-start engine can often become worn and frayed.  This can be prevented by covering the edges of the opening- try duct tape or cutting up a small section of fuel tubing.  Make sure not to obstruct the opening, but rather create a smoother edge to the opening for the cord get in and out of with out fraying.  Never leave your pull start cord pulled all the way out- if this happens, it could get stiff or be impossible to reinsert

• Follow your manufacturer’s instructions for the best results

Your car will come with complete instructions and owner’s manual, which you should read carefully for all specifications and any technical issues you have with your RC.  Should you run into something you can’t fix or an engine that simply won’t run properly (or at all!), it’s best to consult your local hobby shop for some expert advice and help.

There’s nothing like the realistic roar and smoke of a nitro RC, which are fast powerful enough to make for some exciting races.  Bear in mind however, that nitro cars and the engines that power them are very complex, and as such require frequent tuning and meticulous care—much more so than an electric RC.   Because of greater complexity, you will also find they tend to be more expensive, as well.  What this means to you as a driver is that you need to decide in advance what your budget is and just how experienced you are with engines and RC racing.

If you’re beginner but you still have your heart set on a nitro car, they can be purchased in ready to run versions that will get you in the race as soon as you open the box.  Although these still require the same ongoing attention and maintenance, you will be saved the initial trouble of building the car from scratch.

Ready to run nitro cars and trucks are more expensive than the ones you build yourself, but they’re far easier if you’re still unsure about your mechanic ability.  Also, since even ready to run kits contain complete instructions on how they go together, you can rest assured you’ll be able repair, maintain and add on to your car for a long time to come.

The main attraction of nitro RC cars is their realism and their power—they’re fast, they roar and they smoke—just like real cars!  They can be tuned to reach speeds up to 60 mph and they can race as long as you keep filling the gas tank. Though not recommended for complete newcomers to RC racing, nitro RC’s are by far the most popular.

Ready to Run

If you are a complete newcomer to RC cars and racing, this is definitely something you should consider for your first RC vehicle.  Ready to run RC’s are a little more expensive, but they require little or no assembly.  For younger drivers not quite ready for the building portion of RC’s, or for drivers who simply want to get to the race, there are a wide variety of nitro and electric RC vehicles from which to choose.

Some manufacturers ship their ready to run kits without the receiver installed.  If this is the case, they will provide complete instructions on just how to position the circuit board inside the car.  This, in addition to slowly breaking in the engine, are the only things ready to run kits ever need before they’re race-able.

Ready to run RC’s usually come with complete instructions, so if you need to tear down your car at any point to replace parts, you can.  They simply save you the initial work of putting them together, which for beginners is often overwhelming.  If you’re completely new to RC vehicles and unsure about your mechanic ability, you’ll definitely want to make your first RC something that comes ready to run.

Build Your Own

If you don’t mind getting dirty and like to tinker with things, you’ll definitely want to consider building your own RC vehicle.  Build your own kits are complex and time consuming, but when it comes time for maintenance and repairs, nothing compares to knowing your RC car from the inside out.  Though it is initially more difficult, you’ll find the experience comes in handy down the road when you want to change engines, or change the air filter.

Also, if you want to save money, you’ll definitely want a build your own kit.  This is ideal if you’re on a limited budget: by building it yourself you can often get a better model.  Other costs, such as batteries and fuel, are the same whether you build your own RC or choose a ready to run kit.

The length of time it takes to build your RC and just how difficult it is depends on the car, the manufacturer and your experience.  Build your own kits feature complete, step-by-step, illustrated instructions that walk you through the process.  Follow these instructions carefully, and do not expect to build your car in one sitting.  Breaks will help you concentrate better and make fewer mistakes—remember even the pros take their time!

Before you begin, consult the following checklist to make sure you’ve got everything you need to get your RC up and running:

• Your car’s instruction manual

Read it over first!  Before you begin assembling your RC, you should read through the instructions in order to anticipate difficult steps and head off potential disaster or wasted time later on.  Take care not to get ahead or skip steps, as this could result in needing to start over again.

• A notepad and pencil

In addition to making important notes in your instruction manual, you will also want to keep track of screw positions and settings.  Pay special attention to lefts and rights, fronts and rears. Though these are usually marked on the parts themselves, you may need to make additional notes to make sure you get them right.

• A well-lit, uncluttered building area

This should include a clean dry towel to prevent parts from bouncing and rolling, it will protect your bench (or the kitchen table), and it will absorb any liquid you spill.  Be careful not to set up your “pit” in a place that could be disturbed, such as in reach of younger brothers and sisters.  Cover your work with a cloth or towel when you’re not there to prevent any lost pieces.  Finally, make sure there is ample light—a desk lamp will help a great deal—for you to see the inside of your car and its tiny parts.

• Hardware trays

It is recommended to keep your small parts in a container of some sort, use take-out container lids, fishing-tackle boxes, and muffin tins are al suggestions to keep things organized.  When you’re building, be sure to keep everything sorted and separate.

• A small but select set of tools.

You’ll need a basic but good set of tools, including:

• Screwdriver: Nos. 1 and 2 Phillips-head drivers, a 1¼4-inch flat-blade screwdriver and a set of jeweler’s screwdrivers are considered sufficient.
  
  
• Pliers: Pairs of slip-joint and needle-nose pliers are necessary, and nitro models may require channel-lock pliers for holding flywheels.
  
  
• Flush cutters: These are best for the fuel lines and other parts that require a close, clean cut.
  
  
• Hobby knife, no. 11 blades: Blades should be replaced often and the knife should always be used carefully and with supervision for younger drivers.

• Soap, extra fuel tubing

A bar of soap can be used as a clean, dry lubricant for pieces that fit tightly or which fit through tight spots.  Extra fuel tubing is useful for a number of things, like on the end of your screw driver to hold the screw in place while you get it into position.

• Patience

More than anything, this is the biggest challenge; especially if this is your first build your own RC car.  Following the illustrations closely and making sure you don’t rush or skip steps is the best way to ensure success.  Above all, be patient—building an RC car from the ground up is tricky time-consuming business that will only result in error and frustration if you rush it.

If you choose to build your own RC car or truck, it can be very rewarding, but bear in mind that it is quite difficult.  Though electric RC cars are slightly easier to build than their nitro counterparts, it is still strongly recommended that new drivers gain experience running and maintaining a ready to run RC before they attempt to build one from scratch.

Now- Just What Type of RC?

So you’ve you decided you like the simplicity of the electric RC’s, or the realistic sights and sounds of the nitro class.  Now the next decision is just what type of RC vehicle is best for you.  Choose according to what you plan to do with your RC, and your level of experience.

On-Road

On-road cars are the most popular type of RC cars.  The standard for on-road cars is 1/10 scale cars, though 1/8th scale RC’s are not uncommon.  The recent increase in micro and mini RC’s means there are hobby quality on-road cars made as small as 1/18 scale.

Both nitro and electric RC’s come in on-road versions, and are available ready to run or as build your own kits.  Built and geared for speed, an on-road RC should be your choice if you plan to race your car.  Touring cars need a smooth, paved surface on which to run though even running up and down the street you’ll be amazed by their speed.

Off-Road

If you want to be able to run your RC just about anywhere, you’ll definitely need the rugged construction of an off-road vehicle.  These sturdy cars and trucks will handle jumps, uneven terrain, and hills, even sand.  They come in two- or four-wheel drive versions, and are perfectly capable of driving in your back yard, a vacant lot—just about anywhere.

Like their on-road counterparts, off-road RC’s can be purchased ready to run or as build your own kits.  There is a wide variety of both electric and nitro cars and trucks from which to choose.  Off-road RC’s, though not the fastest cars available, are durable, rugged and can be run practically anywhere.

Cars

The touring and racing cars are perhaps the most common type of RC's.  The wide variety of styles and cars in both electric and nitro kits makes them an easy choice for the beginner, and the higher end build your own models can be great for advanced hobbyists.

Lightweight and fast, these are the ideal racers.

Trucks

If off-roading and rugged, sturdy vehicles were what you had in mind, then a truck is likely to be the RC for you.  Both electric and nitro monster trucks are fast, tough RC's for running off-road courses.  The ready to run RC trucks would be suitable for beginners.

Buggies

These durable little RC's are powerful enough to handle on- and off-road terrains with speeds up to 60 mph.  Usually only available in nitro kits, they are a lot to handle for a beginner.

Airplanes

RC flyers are one of the most popular and exciting types of all RC vehicles.  Electric and ready to run versions are the most accessible for the beginner, though of course there are nitro and build your own versions to allow for growth and customization.

RC airplanes are extremely light weight, and can be made to fly and very low speeds.  The electric versions are also quiet enough to be run in a school yard.  This makes them a great option for someone new to the RC scene, though there are fewer competitions for this type of RC vehicle than the trucks and racing cars.

Helicopters

Though a little too complicated the beginner, RC helicopters are exciting and challenging to fly.  They are usually run on gas, and can be great fun for the experienced flyer.

Boats and Watercraft

Available in both electric and nitro powered versions, RC boats are not usually ready to run.  The need for waterproofing adds an additional level of difficulty, and though they are not recommended for beginners, those familiar with the workings of RC vehicles will find boats and other watercraft the most fun of all to build and race.

RC Car Sizes: Standard, Micro or Mini

Next, now what you know what type of RC you want, you need to decide what scale it will be in.   Hobby quality RC cars come in a few different sizes: as small as 1/18 scale and as large as 1/8 scale.  Nitro and electric cars are usually made at the industry standard 1/10 scale.  This can be confusing for a newcomer, but if you’re in any doubt about the size of the RC you’re interested, just as at a local hobby shop and make sure it’s what you want before you buy.

To give you an idea of the amount of variety available when it comes to scale, this is a brief rundown of the sizes of nitro RC’s on the market today, as given by a prominent web retailer (http://www.shipshewanatoys.com):

• 1/10 scale touring cars:

Engine powered touring cars can be extremely fast, reaching speeds up to 55mph. As with electric touring cars, nitro vehicles feature 4WD and realistic body lines, and are only meant for on-road use.

• 1/10 scale stadium trucks:

Nitro stadium trucks are identical to electric stadium trucks, except for the engine power. They're suitable for racing or recreation, on or off road, averaging a peak speed of about 30mph.

• 1/8 scale monster trucks:

These monsters are equipped with major horsepower. Consequently, they can travel on-road and off-road up to 40 mph, tearing through and over anything in its path!

• 1/8 scale buggies:

Similar to other 1/8 scale vehicles, they have the power to traverse rough terrain on-road and off-road, are very durable, and travel up to 60mph.

• 1/8 scale on-road cars:

The revolution of RC performance, these vehicles reach speeds of close to 80mph, coming standard with shifting 2- or 3-speed transmission. Intended for experienced enthusiasts, their foam tires provide tremendous grip, and they are suitable for smooth on-road courses only.

RC Micro and Mini Cars

The most recent development in RC in the last decade or so has been the introduction of micro and mini-sized RC from Japan and throughout Asia.  These tiny but powerful little RC’s offer the same racing excitement as the big boys for only a fraction of the cost.

Only recently introduced to the North American market from Asia by companies like Radio Shack, micro RC’s offer an extremely low price-point for out-of-the-box racing fun.  Priced at $50 or less, these are a great choice for a driver not ready for a full-sized RC or a newcomer to RC racing who wants to see what all the fuss is about.

Measuring only 2 ½” inches long, micro RC’s feature the same kind of motor that makes your cell phone vibrate.  Best of all, these little engines are interchangeable, so you can tweak you micro RC with a different motor for more speed.  Specialty tires and hubcaps can be added to customize the look of your micro RC, as well as enhancements to the torsion and steering controls.

Mini and micro RC’s are always ready to run, right out of the box.  Your little RC will come with the following:

• rubber non-stick tires

• micro scale working engine

• realistic, running chassis

• receiver and circuit board

• transmitter
  
  
• customizable body

The greatest advantage these little cars offer is their versatility.  Unlike the noisy, smoky nitro cars, or the load hum of an electric race, micro RC’s are clean and quiet.  They can be run indoors or out, even in your garage or basement.  This means you don’t have to wait until the next race to run your car—these are small enough you can drive them anywhere.

Mini RC’s, like their standard-sized electric cousins, run on rechargeable battery packs.  When your car is out of juice, it usually pops into the controller itself, which is then plugged into the wall.  With your transmitter doubling as your charger, your car will be ready to race again in under a minute.  If you want to race longer, the fast recharge time for these tiny RC’s is a great selling point.

Overall, though they are not as customizable and intricate as the larger 1/10 and 1/8 scale cars and trucks, micro and mini RC’s have the same acceleration, controls and feel.  Their tiny size makes it possible to run them anywhere from your garage to the kitchen floor so you can race any time you like—down the hall or up the street!

For about a quarter of the cost of a regular RC, you get a car with responsive controls, tunable suspension and customizable exterior  But, like their larger counterparts, you can still get the kind of car you’re after: mini and micro versions of all the most popular vehicles are available.  They’re the ideal option if you’re on a limited budget, but are still eager to get to the race.

But How Much?

In comparison with some other hobbies, RC cars can get somewhat expensive, depending on your level of commitment to it.  Even if you build your own RC car or truck and save the cost of the ready to run kits, additional parts and fuel and battery packs can add up, not to mention the entry fees for races if you plan to compete.  But beware of the widely-available cheaper versions which claim to be good quality RC vehicles.  These break easily and cannot be repaired like hobby-quality RC’s, which can be maintained to run smoothly for years and fixed properly if anything ever goes wrong.  Expect to spend at least $200.00 per vehicle initially, with a more complete beginner setup costing about $

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